Probably one of the most inefficient methods of braiding yet conceived, this machine uses a two-axis computer-controlled gantry to rearrange up to eight yarn bobbins – one at a time- with the goal of creating novel yarns. The aim is to gain flexibility at the price of speed.

PROCESS

Sketches

Solid Model

Toolpath Generation for Milling

CNC Milling

Assembly

Braiding!

The Finished Product…

]]> http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?feed=rss2&p=1577 0 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?p=975 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?p=975#comments Tue, 01 Mar 2011 18:03:11 +0000 heidiqc http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/?p=975

Looking to find a second life for some of my trash, I was inspired by the many sustainable craft blogs that are out there, and wanted to try making my own yarn out of plastic bags, or plarn, as it is affectionately called.  However, there were two key features of the plarn that made it quite unpleasant to me:

1. Plarn when woven or knitted tends to produce a fabric which looks cheap (at least to me) and has an “artificial” hand feel.  It is rough and uninviting to touch.
2. Plarn when spun took on a quality like coarse rope.

Hence, I came up with the idea to make a hybrid plarn with materials that would make it feel softer and look more aesthetically pleasing.  I wanted the final yarn to be similar to the more “traditional” yarns of cotton or wool, while simultaneously upcycling some of what would otherwise end up in the landfill.

During the week, I experimented with combinations of plastic bag with wool, bamboo,  and conductive yarns like aluminum and copper. I liked the feel of the wool and bamboo, but the bamboo hybrid had issues with the final yarn unraveling as the bamboo staple fibers were too short and inconsistent.  I decided on wool as it offered the most color choices, and the combination of wool fibers and plastic appeared to be the strongest.  After making some wool-plastic hybrids, I decided that the simple combination of wool and plastic worked and felt fine, but looked rather dull, so I added additional colors and some aluminum fibers to make it look shinier and more appealing.  The end result is a 2 ply hybrid of plarn: the first ply of plastic bag a a little green wool, and the second ply of a very thin ply of green wool, black wool and aluminum fibers. The plastic bag to wool+yarn proportion is about 30%, but this can be increased to 50% without a drop in the quality (texture and look) of the yarn. The texture of the final hybrid plarn is much softer, and offers an interesting mix of colors, which I enjoy. As a bonus, the yarn also conducts some electricity due to the aluminum fibers.

Properties:

Diameter:  2090-3120 micrometers
Total Length of Yarn:  2.6 meters
Ply: 2 ply
Fiber Length: plastic bag- continuous filament, wool- 140 mm, aluminum- 88 mm
Twist Direction: S twist
Twist: 9 turns per inch
Conductivity: 2.8 ohms per cm
Denier/Tex: 10568 denier / 1174 g/km – I weighed the yarn in grams, then took (weight of yarn in grams)/(length of yarn in meters) multiplied by 9000m for denier and 1000m for tex.
Yarn Size: Elongation: 110% – I measured 1 inch of yarn, and stretched it between pliers until it broke. Then, I measured the final length and took the formula (final length – initial length)/(initial length)*100%.
Elastic Recovery: ~50% – I stretched 1 inch of yarn to 1.2 inches, and it bounced back to 1.1 inches.
Absorbency: 190% – I weighed the yarn dry, and then wet, and then took (weight of wet yarn – weight of dry yarn)/(weight of dry yarn)*100%

I’m interested in traditional weaving combined with the modern technology. I initially wanted to make a luminous yarn. However after long time try I found that using optical fibers could only produce shining points. So up to now I create a shining yarn instead. It can be used in art works or decorations for the holidays.

My yarn is constructed on wool, hemp and optical fibers. The optical fiber is 0.25mm in diameter. I twisted 15 optical fibers in different length with wool and hemp. The optical fibers are almost invisible if you do not check very closly at the yarn. Then when you light up an LED at the end of the optical fibers, shining points will be dotted along the yarn.

Observation & Measurements of the shining yarn:
length: 2 yards
twist direction: S
2 ply
fiber length: wool: 3-5inches, hemp: 4-6 inches, optical fiber: filament
diameter: 3-6 mm
conductivity: no

I tried an alternative way of making the shining yarn. I used the 3 pieces of 1mm optical fibers and cut dents along them. Then I twisted wool and hemp along each of them. I braided the three plies together to make a thicker yarn. I used the LED at both ends but the light could only travel less than 20 mm. This character limits the length of the yarn, though it is beautiful!

Measurement of the alternative yarn:
length: 20 inches
twisted direction: S
3 ply braid
diameter:5mm
conductivity: no

Plug-in Yarn

During the spinning class with Kanjun, I experimented with spinning different fibers such as cotton, hemp, bamboo and aluminum. Over the weekend, while doing research for my thesis, I became inspired by Archigram’s plug-in work ( i.e. Plug-in Capsule Home, Montreal Tower, Plug-in City, University Node, Gasket Homes and Plug-in Clip) and I created a plug-in yarn.

Kanjun’s Spinning Workshop

Below is the work I did during Kanjun’s spinning class.

Bamboo and Aluminum fibers that I spun into 2 ply yarn

Making 2ply yarn from Bamboo and Aluminum

Other various yarns that I spun during Kanjun's spinning workshop

Bamboo Fiber

Hemp + Cotton Fibers

Bamboo + Aluminum Fibers

Yarn Specs:

Bamboo Fiber:   0.25″ / 18″ / 2 ply / 3.5″ / Clockwise / 4 /  not conductive

Hemp + Cotton Fibers:  .667″  / 27.5″ / 2 ply / clockwise / 4.5 / not conductive

Bamboo + Aluminum Fibers: .667″ / 74″ /2 ply / clockwise / 3 / ?? will measure in class

Plug-in Yarn

Initially, I planned to create a circuit yarn that had LED lights with flowers crocheted around the light.

Then, with inspiration from Archigram, I thought it’d be better if other components could later be attached. I thought of designating positive and negative wires with beads and that one wire should be insulated to lessen the chances of the + & – contacting and shorting the circuit.

From my previous experience of working with Aluminum fiber, I pre-drafted it for easier spinning.

Drafted aluminum fiber

Spinning Aluminum Fiber

I taped the ends of my fibers for easier braiding. Below, I’m using an aluminum fiber for the positive charge and a copper insulated wire I found in a bead shop at Harvard square for the negative charge. The other fibers are old strands I had in my yarn collection that I previously used for embroidery. I added some beads for the negative wire to show places on the wire where additional components (i.e. LED light) could be added – though, they could be added anywhere.

Plug-in Yarn prep

To prevent tangles during braiding, I looped some material and at the end of the copper-insulated wire, I created another loop to prevent the beads from falling off during braiding.

FYI

The finished product. After braiding, I added a LED light near a bead. I also had another LED at the end of the yarn and this flickered for a few moments and then it never flickered again. I think that this may be caused by the aluminum fibers as they tend to spread everywhere and may be causing some short circuiting.

Plug-in Yarn Close-up

Plug-in Yarn close-up

Yarn Specs:

Aluminum fiber + embroidery fibers + copper insulated wire: .667″ / 79″ / 7 ply / braided – both counter and clockwise twist? / 3 braids per inch / ?? will be measure conductivity in class.

Foreground: Plied copper and wool yarn; Background: 100% Conductive yarn

For this project, I produced 2 yarns, one with 100% conductivity, and the other, less so due to the use of blended fibers.  The final yarn (forground) is a 2 ply copper and wool blend. The plies were produced by spinning roving into yarn on a traditional drop spindle. The goal was to produce yarn that maintained a natural aesthetic, while allowing for a degree of conductivity. The conductive properties enable the yarn to be used in circuit dependent applications.

Yarn Specifications:

Ply- 2 ply; Diameter- 2000-4000 micrometeres; length- 2 yards; twist direction- S; turns per inch- 2; fiber length (copper)- 3000 micrometers; fiber length (wool)- 6000 micrometers.

I started with the wires from the inside of a typical ethernet cable. The inner wires are often many different colored, exactly what I was looking for.

To get to the inner wires, I first cut off one end of the wire.

I then stripped off the outer blue wrapping to reveal 8 strands of colored wire. I cut 8ft of each color to use in my final ribbon. Notice that the inner wires were are already plied together.

Thus, for each of the pairs of wires, I had to separate them into single wires instead of “yarns.”

Next, I tied each of the wires to a nail that I taped to a table top so that I could get tension on the wires and make braiding easier.

I arranged the wires so that the solid colors and the corresponding white-with-a-solid-stripe wires were side by side on the nail. In the future, I would not do this, because the pattern caused all the white wires to be side by side in the final braid and I prefer them to be more dispersed.

Then, I began braiding. I followed the instructions laid out in the instructables for an eight strand flat braid.

After a while, it started to look like this. To get the required 2 yards, I used about 7ft of the original 8ft allotted. It took 5-6 hours to get the braid done for just these 6ft. Due to this extreme time commitment (nearly 1 hour per foot), I would not suggest this braid for the future, but it was fine for this one time.

This is close up of one section of the finished ribbon.

A bit closer photo.

A side profile shot to show that the ribbon really is very thin.

Finished product.

A few measurements:
Width – 1 to 1.5cm
Thickness – 3mm
Total Length of Yarn – a little over 2 yards
Fiber Diameter –
Ply – 8 strands
Fiber Length – The wires were probably originally a filament.
Longest “Wavelength” (wavelength of one color of wire) – 8cm
Shortest “Wavelength” (wavelength of one color of wire)- 4.5cm
Conductivity – 0.125ohm/inch (12ohm/8ft)

Gilding Bamboo

My fiber to gilded yarn process evolved as follows:

• First, twist organic fibers into yarn by hand or by using a hand tool.  I started with 1) human hair (I got some from my sister in California when I was there last weekend), 2) really soft gray bamboo fiber, and 3) hemp fiber.
• Second, I applied an adhesive that contained soluble copper, which is usually used for touching up brass coloring on metal.  This was in hopes of transforming the organic fiber into a conductive material.
• Third, since the soluble copper adhesive did not add any luster to the fabric i.e. it looked sticky and ugly, I applied Inca gold colored mica powder, which is actually a mineral which glimmers like gold
• Fourth, turn on the vent and wait to dry.  Leave the room if possible (since the fumes are highly noxious).

My sister's hairGray bamboo fiber

Hemp fiber

Hand-twisting fibers

Hand spinning with the drop spindle

Spun hemp yarn

Exterior brass gold, an adhesive with soluble copper

Applying the soluble copper adhesive

Inca gold mica powder

Applying the gold mica powder

Gilded human hair

Gilded human hair - up close

Gilded hemp

Gilded hemp - up close

Gilded bamboo fiber

Gilded bamboo fiber - up close

Key stats:

Gilded human hair | diameter: 2-4 mm | yarn length: 30 cm | 1-ply | fiber length: 20-30 cm | twist clockwise 3 turns per inch | no conductivity

Gilded hemp fiber | diameter: 10-12 mm | yarn length: 100-200 cm | 2-ply | fiber length: 5 cm | twist clockwise 3 turns per inch | no conductivity

Gilded bamboo fiber | diameter: 3-4 mm | yarn length: 80-150 cm | 2-ply | fiber length: 5 cm | twist clockwise 2 turns per inch | no conductivity

I have always been interested in the history of weaving. It is such an old, amazing technique used by women all over the word to make fibers into fabric. Last monday I was inspired by our workshop and am really enjoying the process of spinning. It feels magical and also meditative.

The yarn that I spun is constructed on wool and aluminum fibers structured in two different methods. I decided to make one yarn (yarn #1) that is a single of both the aluminum and the wool ply together, and a second (yarn #2) that is a mixture of the two materials and spun into a single then plied. I  then compared the two yarns in conductivity. The conductivity is different. Also, I found that the conductivity changes in each as the yarn is stretched.

Observations & Measurements:

Yarn #1

1 Yard in length

2 ply

Fiber length: Wool 60mm/fiber, Alluminun 100mm/fiber

Twist: Single is clockwise, Double counter clockwise, 2.5 twists/inch

Diameter: 2,000µm

Yarn #2

3 Yard in length

2 ply

Fiber length: Wool 60mm/fiber, Alluminun 100mm/fiber

Twist: Single is clockwise, Double counter clockwise, 3 twists/inch

Diameter: 2,000µm

Yarn #2: The measurements in Ω variy whenn the yarn is measured at rest and stretched. This is what I expected when making it. When the yarn was measured at rest (a section about 4 inches in length) it measured between 6 and 12 Ω. When stretched the resistance dropped (varing between 1 and 3 Ω . Over a longer section of yarn the conductivity drops and the resistance increases. Even though the conductivity is less the yarn behaves the same, at rest is less conductive that stretched. Yarn #1 reacts the same and appears to have a higher conductivity in general. This makes since due to its structure, one single strand of both the aluminum and wool then plied together. Most likely Yarn #2 has a more dynamic structure causing the resistance to be higher in general.

USB Microscope Pictures:

Process:

The idea behind this was to have 2 channels of energy going through yarn: light and electricity. The Conductive Optical yarn was created using macrame knotting techniques. The insulation is a mixture of  wool, hemp and burnt bamboo handspun into a 2 ply strand. The photos taken under the microscope show these different materials before and after the final strand was tied together with stainless steel.

At different points of the yarn, there are conductive points at the surface to leave the ends free for the introduction of 2 light sources. The sides of the fiber optic cable have been scored for light to be emitted.

Measurements:

Length: 2 Yards

Design: Mantle-core

Technique: Macramé

Fiber used: Wool, Hemp, Optical Fiber, Stainless Steel, Burnt Bamboo

Diameter: 5 – 8 mm

Due: Tuesday March 1, 2011
See student yarns here

For this assignment you will make a yarn that consists of two or more different materials. You should make at least 2 yards of yarn (talk to Leah if your yarn is so labor intensive to build that this requirement seems unreasonable). Create a post that documents your project and put your post into the “Yarn” category. Your page should contain pictures, including one or more microscopic close-ups and one or more regular photos of the yarn. The USB microscope will be attached to the iMac computer in the HLT lab. Write a paragraph or two that describes how your yarn was made and justifies your choice of materials. See the yarn built by year’s class here.

Measure and report the following properties (if they are relevant for your yarn):

• diameter (micrometers)
• total length of yarn (meters or yards)
• ply
• fiber length (millimeters)
• twist direction
• twist (turns per inch)
• conductivity (ohms per centimeter or ohms per inch)

Bonus points for measuring any of the following properties and explaining how you did so:

• denier or tex
• yarn size
• tenacity
• elongation
• elastic recovery
• absorbency

Bring your yarn to class on March 1 for demos!