For the materials, I chose the linen yarn and the cotton yarn instead of normal wool yarns. The linen yarn creates a very interesting quality, though it breaks very easily. The cotton one has very smooth surface. But I had to “manually” stretch the yarn before each knitting line, as it is not wrapped around bobbin cone.
For the long “wave”.I tried several times. Then I used the method of simply adding the lines along the knitting direction. The result looks good and smooth, although the middle parts always merged down as they were lack of supporting.
For the adjacent “short waves”, I made one bulge while holding the other unknitting in D position. And then I began knitting the other part, while holding the previous one unknitting.
For the skrewed piece, I gradually pushed the needles to D position one by one while knitting. Every time the “newly pushed” D position needle should be far from the knitting end.

Basically the result looks good. If time permits I will use the mid-machine instead and try other ways to create a real bulged curve.

The first thing I wanted to make with this assignment was to incorporate color into my knitted pattern. I started to try my little “experiment” on the smaller needles mashine. I was surprised how fast my piece was growing…i guess that was the luck of a beginner cause suddenly it felt down from the needles. I was knitting with two threds and changing them every 20 rows… I didn’t realize that the threds crossed several times above my head and one of them felt down from the wire “crane”. The preasure was released and my kinitting was over. I tried again and made quite a long stripped piece (violet and green on the photo). When I wanted to finish my work I  found out that I forgot how to cast off! I have discovered that the small mashine is not the one to learn how to do that, the holes were very small and I finally gave up. This is why my stripped piece unstitches easly..

I’ve moved to the bigger mashine and started the “pike” part of assignment. I chose to try with two threads so the knitted material would be very thick – I was hoping that my “pikes” would stand by themselves (you can see this on the introduction photo). Later at home I used my “pikes” to make a “cell phone warmer” for my mobile.

For the pattern I chose a simple repetative hexagonal like repetative motive. I was D positioning every second pair of neddeles. You can see the pattern on the photos below and the pattern dirsctions on the diagram. Blue dots are the needles in position D.

It was a great experience to play with this mashines and explore their possibilities. I am looking forward using them again in my future projects.

The structure which I created is the result of experimenting with the sample pattern given by Prof. Buechley as the first part of the assignment. My goal was to create a curved seam rather than a right-angle seam. My approach was to write a simple Python script which generates sequences of needle positions to approximate an arc. Inputs to the script are the # of needles and the sweep angle of the arc.

The program is shown here:

import math

max_angle = 55 #30 degrees
stitches = 26
pins = range(stitches)
cosines = range(stitches)

for i in pins:
angle = math.radians(float(max_angle)/float(stitches)*i)
cosines[i] = (1.0 - round(math.cos(angle),3)) * stitches

for i in pins:
print "PIN: " + str(i) + ": " + str(round(cosines[i]))

And the resulting terminal output:

The pattern is centered on both “Pin 1″s,  and occupies a total of 52 needles. The script output says to keep the listed pins out of the pattern for the specified number of shuttle strokes. One stroke is both left to right and right to left (or vise-versa depending on when the needle is brought out of the knit). Otherwise the instructions are identical to those of the sample instructions for the first part of the assignment.

   Before creating our own designs, the class became comfortable with using the knitting machine by knitting a sample designed through the use of an existing pattern…

  This pattern creates what appears to be an indentation in the knit structure. Once taken off the machine, the sequencial reduction and reintoduction of cast needles creates a “cone” or “mitered edge” 

  For my design, I knew I wanted to create a form that had some sense of geometry. With  the concept of the mitered edge in mind, I used the concept of the original knit structure (expanded in width) and knit the sequence back to back 4 times without a straight knit in between.  I put two yarns into the same machine feed to created a variegated affect on the knit surface.  

 Once off the machine, I turned the 4 “cones” inward to create a square. The use of 2 yarns had a suprising effect in that their contrast emphasized the directional movement of each of the corners.  To finish, I sewed the opened end together. 

Final Knit 2 pattern:

Cast on 40 needles. Knit 10 rows. Carriage should be on right side. Move  Russel levers from position 1 to 2. Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on left side). Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on right side). Continue bringing one needle into hold position on the carriage side until you have 2 needles in knit position in the center of your pattern. Carriage should be on right side.

The knitter will know move the sequence in the inverse by bringing needles out of hold position. Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the left side) into knit position. Knit one row (carriage should be on the left now). Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the right side) into knit position. Knit one row (carriage should now be on the right). Continue bringing one needle out of hold position opposite the carriage side until all needles are back in knit position.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 three more times only do not place 10 rows of plain knit in between the new structures. Once you have finished the last sequence, you may knit 10 rows before casting off and shaping.

Half-Knitted Sock

This process was not easy for me.  Despite the time I put into the lab and the many failed experiments I had, I am still not able to do a proper cast-off and am still not sure exactly what to do when something gets caught or gets sewn incorrectly.  I am amazed at how quickly the machine is able to knit the yarn and how I am able to get such nicely tailored clothes from the store.

I experimented with different patterns — from the cascading inward hole technique to trying to knit loops.  What I found was that even small changes in the patterns (of just one needle) was noticeable and in fact, larger changes (of several needles) often broke the tension and the structure enough to sabotage the entire effort.

All in all, this week helped me learn some of the technique needed to use both yarn machines – and more than anything, appreciate all the clothes that I wear, especially my knit scarves.

Some of my failed experiments

First successful knit on the big machine

First cloth from the smaller machine

Second cloth with the smaller machine

On the third try for this part of the assigment (right), I finally didn't drop any stitches!

After completing the first part of the knitting assignment, I began working on  part II and I decided to knit two peaks in the same row. My first try was somewhat successful as it produced the desired shape…but then I discovered a collection of string that had gathered on the purl side.

Two peaks -- almost like a knit hat with ears

Yarn accumulating between the two peaks

Accumulated yarn from trying to simultaneously knit two peaks

For some silly reason,  I decided to continue a similar knitting  venture except this time, the two peaks are separated…this did not work out either.

Attempt at two peaks in same row, separated by 10 knit stitches

After speaking with Hannah, she said to knit the peaks separately. Aha! That makes sense, I thought. This, however, was the beginning of a long agonizing process. Time and time again, after completing one peak,  the stitches for the next peak dropped! Frustrated (and tenacious), I began working on scrap segments in attempt to figure out what was going on.

Starting out ok

Finished one peak...

...and my stitches dropped again and again.

So, then I decided, just do something simple. So, I tried a method similar to what was used in creating the peak in Part I, but on the side. Again, the same story, I kept dropping stitches.

More dropped stitches

Knitted rows that change direction

I eventually discovered that to add several stitches without unintentionally dropping them, the tension yarn had to be

crossing the needles. When adding one stitch, however, the yarn did not need to cross over the needles.

Apparently, these  experiences with the knitting machine inspired some knitting typlogies early one morning…but due to time constraints, I only tried out one.

Topology knit

Pattern:

Russell Levers on Level I

Cast on 10 stitches.

Knit 10 rows (carriage finishes on right side)

[

Add a stitch* at opposite side of carriage (left side), Knit 1 row

Add a stitch at opposite side of carriage (right side), Knit 1 row

Knit 2 rows

]**

** repeat two more times. When finished, knit columns should total 16.

Change Russell Levers  to level II.  Hold left 8 stitches.

Knit 3 rows ( when finished, carriage is on left side)

[

Add a stitch at opposite side of carriage (right side), Knit 1 row

Knit 1 row (carriage is on left)

]***

***repeat two more times. When finished, knit columns should total 11. Carriage is on right side.

Knit 7 rows. When finished, carriage is on right side.

[

subtract 1 stitch, knit 1 row (carriae is on left side)

knit 1 row (carriage is on right side)

]****

****repeat 2 more times. When finished, knit columns should total 8. Carriage is on left side.

Knit 3 rows.

Move this knitted rows to position D.

Move left knitted rows from position D to B.

Knit 3 rows

[

Add a stitch at opposite side of carriage (left side), Knit 1 row

Knit 1 row (carriage is on right)

]****

****repeat 2 more times. Finish with carriage on left and 11 knit columns.

Knit 7 rows. Finish with carriage on right side.

[

Subtract a stitch at opposite side of carriage (left side), knit 1 row

Knit 1 row (carriage is on right).

]****

***repeat 2 more times. Finish with carriage on right and 8 knit columns.

Move right 8 knit columns from position D to B.

Knit 10 rows.

*Take a loop from previous row, twist and hook onto adjacent empty hook

by Nicole Tariverdian

Process:

I encountered a couple of issues using the kitting machine. After overcoming the problems using the machine became fast and gratifying. Initially I was dropping stitches after trying to bring needles back into the knitting from hold. This problem was overcome but using my hand to pull on the knitting that was gapping under the needle bed. After completing the pattern, I decided to experiment  by putting different sets of needles into hold at various times with different amount of rows knitted. I found that I could create raised patterns in the kitting by putting different numbers of needles into hold for specific numbers of knitted rows.  The final pattern I decided to used created raised diamonds in the knit. Before casting off, my know got stuck in the carriage of the machine. Leah helped me to open the carriage to release the strip. The piece was slightly unraveled. I took it off the hooks to crochet the ends.

Pattern:

Cast on 20 needles and kit 10 rows. Bring the two center needles into position D (hold) knit 4 rows. Bring these two needles back into the knit position and knit two row. Now skip one needle, on each side of the center two, and push the next two on each side into hold (four needles into hold total). Knit 4 rows. Bring these needles back into the knit position and knit 2 rows. Skip the next needle out from the center and bring the following two needles into hold. Knit 4 rows.  Bring these 4 needles back to knit position and knit 2 rows.

Starting with the same 4 needles (on the outside) bring two out to hold and repeat the same pattern working back to the center two needles.

Experience:

As I started with the fine-gauge knitting machine, starting was somewhat challenging, and I lost stitches several times and could not “save” my work as the stitches were too small. Casting off was also a struggle, and it took me 3 tries to get it right. After getting the hang of using the knitting machine, the rest went quite smoothly.  When creating the second pattern, I discovered that there are nuances to the knitting process, like how putting needles on hold closer to the carriage has a different effect from putting needles on hold further from the carriage. The order of taking needles in and out of hold changes the resulting pattern.  The amount of tension on the stitches also changes the end result.  Furthermore, the process of putting my plans and ideas into knitted reality posed a difficulty, as translating the pattern from paper to knit did not quite produce what I intended.  I experimented with several ideas (shown in the gallery) before finally settling on the ribbon pattern.  Finally, for some yet unknown reason, the ribbon I produced on the fine-gauge knitting machine had some irregularities on the right of the pattern, which did not go away when the hold order of the needles was reversed. This did not occur in the mid-gauge machine, and even after talking to Leah, I could not fix it.  Perhaps this is due to a tensioning problem on the fine-gauge machine.

My pattern is interesting because I make use of the gathering of threads in the center to produce a “bump” in the ribbon, which is accompanied by excess knit on the edges which curl up to produce a wavy 3d outline. The “bumps” are alternated with spaces  in between, which gives the ribbon its distinctive look.

Gallery:

Pattern:

Cast on 9 needles. Knit 6 rows. Carriage should be on right side. Make sure Russel levers are in position I.

Start of repeating ribbon pattern:
Bring center needle (needle 5 from left) into hold position. Knit one row.
Bring needle 4  into hold position. Knit one row.
Bring needle 6 into hold position. Knit one row.
Bring needle 3 into hold position. Knit one row.
Bring needle 7 into hold position. Knit one row. (By this point, 5 needles (needles 3-7 from left) should be in hold. Carriage should be on the left side.

Begin taking needles out hold by pushing the following needles into B position.
Bring needle 3 out of hold. Knit one row.
Bring needle 7 out of hold. Knit one row.
Bring needle 4 out of hold. Knit one row.
Bring needle 6 out of hold. Knit one row.
Bring needle 5 out of hold. Knit one row.  Carriage should be on the right side.

Repeat ribbon pattern until desired length of ribbon is obtained.

To end: Knit 6 rows. Cast off.

The concept of my pattern was based on combining weaving & knitting in one work. I designed a pattern for wrist-warmers where the pattern accommodates straps to fit the wrist-warmers for different sized wrists. The structure to incorporate the straps (goes through the gaps) is not practical and decorative. The straps are woven into these structures which fluffs up the structural element which creates the impression of polka dots as decorative elements when looking from afar.

I found the medium gauge knitting machine easy and quick to use once I remembered the setting the machine was on. Compared to knitting by hand, the pattern builds very quickly. Casting off creates a very neat edge that contributes to the look of the final work.

My Pattern for wrist-warmers (Knit x2)

Cast on 44 needles. Knit 10 rows. Carriage is on the right side. The Russel levers are in position I. Count 4 needles then bring next 4 needles into hold position. Keep alternating 4 needles in knit and hold position for the 44 stitches. Knit 4 rows. Swap the stitches, bring the stitches on hold into knit and the knit stitches into hold. Knit 4 rows. Change the color of the yarn. Knit 8 rows. Bring all the hold needles back into knit. Knit 10 rows.

Count 4 needles then bring next 4 needles into hold position. Keep alternating 4 needles in knit and hold position for the 44 stitches. Knit 8 rows. Swap the stitches, bring the stitches on hold into knit and the knit stitches into hold. Knit 4 rows. Change the color of the yarn.Knit 4 rows. Put all stitches back into knit. Knit 10 rows. Cast off.

Straps (x4)

Braid 14 inch  strips.

Putting the straps on

Weave the straps into the gaps along the point where the colors change. Stitch the straps to the machine knit material.

For this assignment you will create two knit pieces, one by following an existing pattern and one by developing your own pattern. This assignment will focus on different knit structures. A later assignment will focus on color and pattern.

Part 1. Create a knit swatch from the following pattern:
Cast on 20 needles. Knit 10 rows. Carriage should be on right side. Make sure carriage is in the proper mode (Russel levers should be in position I). Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on left side). Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on right side). Continue bringing one needle into hold position on the carriage side until you have 2 needles in knit position in the center of your pattern. Carriage should be on right side.

Begin taking needles out of hold position. Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the left side) into B (knit) position. Knit one row (carriage should be on right side). Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the right side) into B (knit) position. Knit one row (carriage should be on left side). Continue bringing one needle out of hold position opposite the carriage side until all needles are back in knit position. Knit 10 rows. Cast off.

Part 2. Create and document your own pattern
Create a knit swatch that is at least 6″ x 6″ large that has a noteworthy topography or topology. Write out the pattern for your swatch.

Create a post that documents your projects and add it to the Knitting category. Your page should include pictures of both of your finished pieces, the pattern for the Part 2 assignment, and a paragraph about your experience–including an explanation of why your Part 2 pattern is interesting or novel.

Bring your projects to class on March 15 for demonstrations. Note: you’ll turn these assignments in for closer inspection.