/*This example draws voronoi diagram generated by a random set of points.*/
void setup() { size(1200,600,P3D); //size of your intended pattern noLoop(); // don’t need to use the draw loop  /*unique name for your file. if left unchanged, will simply save file with current milisecond*/ String fileName= “voronoi”+millis()+”.pdf”;    beginRaw(PDF, fileName); //enables you to save your design to a pdf        setupVoronoi(); // create your voronoi generator     int a = 3;   int b=4;    int numPoints=200; //must be multiple of n    float x=0;    float y=0;    float delta =0;    float t=0;
delta=(b-1)/b*3.14159265/2;    for (int k=1;k<numPoints;k++) {       t= k*2*3.14159265/numPoints;    x=200*sin(t*a+delta)+600;    y=150*sin(b*t)+300;          voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(x,y));  }     int c = 3;   int d=4;    int numPoints2=200; //must be multiple of n    float theta =0;   for (int k=1;k<numPoints2;k++) {       y=5*(c*theta-d*sin(theta));    x=5*(c-d*cos(theta))+20;    theta= theta+23*3.14159/numPoints2;         voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(x,y));         voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(1200-x,y));  }   drawVoronoi(); //renders your voronoi   endRaw(); //ends the recording
}

Final Project: A professional style women’s vest with laser cut lace appliqué based on a vornoi digram of a lissajous curve and a prolate cycloid.

The laser cut dresses are very delicate and would be difficult to wear. The goal of this project is to make a usable clothing item by iron on fusing and sewing the laser cut pattern down.

The pattern will be based on mathematical shapes with a voronoi diagram.  Once the 2D pattern is created, it will be modified to fit the panels of the vest pattern.

Lissajous curve on the back of the vest

Using Lincoln Labs Logo

x = 3 sin(8πt/T) and y = 4 sin(6πt/T)

http://www.ll.mit.edu/about/History/logo.html

Prolate Cycloid on the front flaps

The Voronoi diagram selected has 200 points per geometric figure and is 1200 x 600. A selection of design iterations is below.

Lissajous & Prolate Code

Once the vest pattern and diagram were selected, the diagram needed to be modified to fit the pattern

1.Measure vest pattern and put in SolidWorks

2.Line up edges close together

3.Move individual lines so that the lines will touch at the seams.

4.Extend lines to account for seams.

SolidWorks drawing of pattern ( converted by hand)

Final Design

Cutting the diagrams

laser cutting wool SMELLS. You are literally burning hair.  It works best if you cut with the iron on facing up because it reduces the burning. I found it effective to cut with 100% speed and about 45 watts.

The smell is reasonably easily washed out and the burned areas gets washed away so the final product looks very nice.

The Fun Part:
Making the patterns line up at the seams

Cut patterns seam to be a little too large making fitting difficult

Below is the simplified version of how the fitting was done:

1. Line up patterns on the front and back panel

2.Iron down central area of the back and front panels

3.Line up middle two patterns: Excessive pinning is the answer to your problems.

4.Iron down remainder

Finishing Touches

Sew over the pattern: more stable than iron-on alone. This takes a HUGE amount of time. It took me about 10 hours and I was aiming for speed over accuracy. It is worth it if you want the garment to last.

Complete edges with bias tape.

Steps: sew 1/4 seam flat, iron over, sew down

Finished Vest ( ~25 hours of work )

I ended up only printing a few L-system designs because of time constraints. I used green as the main thread and purple on the bobbin. I ran out of bobbin thread several times and had tension issues when re-threading which caused color variation within each pattern. The effect actually looked quite nice, but would need to be fixed for a more consistent result.   In progress printing is below.

I attempted to make a lace pattern with a background pattern and a dynamic system pattern, but the background program was far too long (about 3 hours) and started ripping the dissolvable  substrate so I abandoned the project.

Images of my final project are below.

Project Goals:

—Usable final product

Durable:

• Lace bonded and edges sewn to lower layer cloth.
• Low stretch possible with wool felt: Vest, chest areas of jacket, bag
• Careful attention to pattern and sewing —

Unique design with pattern tailored to available space instead of choosing a design and fitting it to the space. —

Fully patterned on front and back

Presentation

10 stitches across of each patter will be shown at minimum, more if needed for pattern

pattern spacing for readability
1 leave hook in knit position
0 pull hook all the way forward
> move stitch one to the right
< move stitch one to the left
….. continue pattern
x# number of times row is repeated

Seed Stitch Test:
seed pattern

The polar rose is a the forms generated by the equation r= a*cos(theta*n/d) and results in the possible forms shown below (from Wikipedia). I chose this equation because it produces a large range of shapes from a single code.

I inserted this equation in the the “Random” Voronoi generator by Jennifer. My code is below, but not properly commented.

Lace for one view

A few mili fluidic devices I made in 2.674 are below. They are fabricated with UV curing epoxy on glass which are both stiff materials, so they will not work for a soft device as required by the project.

Micro fluidic devices are usually fabricated with PDMS which is flexible, but the PDMS is bonded to glass to make the structure rigid. I did not have access to PDMS for this project, so I decided to use the DragonSkin silicone provided by the class as my base material.

My first test used straws to create a hole in a silicone part. This worked well to make a passage, but allowed for only  very limited geometry.

The channels needs to be produced in a two part mold for more intricate geometries.

In the conventional method, the PDMS is bonded to glass by exposing both surfaces to an oxygen plasma and the same process should work for silicone. Cured silicone is nearly impossible to bond to by conventional means, to the plasma treatment was a reasonable option.

I modeled the channels I wanted to make in SolidWorks and machined the mold for the silicone on a CNC mill.  I then molded the silicone in the mold and a flat panel for the top as seen below.

The plasma chamber pictured below was used to prepare the surface for bonding. The purple seen through the chamber window is the plasma. Unfortunately, the silicone did not bond.

Testing

Fabric Petal

Paper Petal

I wanted to have at least five petals to make a complete flower. I found that the amount of Nitinol we were provided with would not be enough to make the flowers curl completely like the longest section of demo from class. I decided to settle for slightly scrunched petal tips which I did have enough Nitinol to achieve.

Each petal needed 2.5 inches of Nitonol, so I was able to make six petals. I tested my first complete petal as shown in the video below to find out how much resistance each flower had. A 2.5 inch piece of Nitinol nominally has 3.5 Ohms of resistance. I measured one petal at 410mA and 1.2 V for 2.9 Ohms per petal. I decided to connect three petals together and use 3.7 volts from the LiPo battery. I used wire for my power connections to limit other possible power losses.

Parts for the final flower

The petals are connected in sets of three. They are connected positive to negative by a wire soldered between each petal as seen in the third picture. The first picture shows a stiff fabric ironed onto the back where the Nitinol wire goes which prevents the fabric from crumpling and forces it to bend.

The leaves are just for decoration and hold the button to turn the MOSFET for the petals “on”. The wiring in the leaves is stitched into the middle of the felt so it will be electrically isolated.

The final flower is assembled below. All the electronics are houses under the lilypad in the flower center. This produces a clean look, but the electrical connections ended up very jumbled and are difficult to debug. I forgot to account for the diode voltage drop at the MOSFET, so I ended up using the 5V supply from the laptop instead of the 3.7 V from the battery.

Thinner blades are helpful when blowing because they have less thermal capacity and cool the glass less when used.  If you know the maximum force being applied to the glass, you can calculated the required blade thickness so they will not bend and therefore make them as small as possible.

Glass blowing is usually done with bare hands and I wanted to the gloves to interfere as little as possible. I ordered very thin liner gloves to house my pressure sensor with an unhemed liner glove on the inside and a second handed glove for the outside.

For the sensor, I chose the to use a cross between the sticky tape and fabric pressure sensors because it could be very thin with  Velostat as the sensor. The graphite infused rubber had a better resistance range, but it was too bulky to integrate into a glove.  I initially tried to make the sensor using iron-on conductive fabric, but I had trouble with the fabric melting through the Velostat as seen below.

The best sensor was single layer Velostat which had higher linearity then multilayer Velostat. I used conductive fabric instead of thread for the Velostat connection because to provides more uniform sensing. The sensor read between 2k and 150k Ohms.

The sensor was then sewn onto the interior glove using non conductive thread to hold the conductive thread down. The inside surface of glove needs to be non-conductive because it will be used with metal tools which would short the sensor.

The sensor output is displayed with four LEDs and uses PWM fading with the AnalogWrite command to give finer resolution. I used the internal 35k Ohm pull up resistor which required me to use only 25% of the voltage reading range.

Arduino Code

The final glove worked well for showing variation in bending or squeezing, but the resistance goes too low from squeezing alone for it to work well with glass blowing. I would need to change the sensor to not be effected by bending to make it more effective.

Calculations:

R_min = 2kOhms

R_max = 150 kOhms

R_pullup = 35 kOhms

V_max = 5V (doesn’t actually matter since LED control is from relative voltage readings, not absolute)

V_out = V_max * R / (R + R_pullup)

V_outmax = 4.05 V

V_outmin = 0.27 V

Once the sensor was installed in the glove, the pressure from just being in the glove lowered the maximum resistance to about 30 kOhms

V_outmax = 2.30 V

I used these ranges to calibrate the values for my LED turn-on.