http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/elephant.pdf

I have created a mock-up of what the toy robot will look like:

I then structured how the inside of the elephant will look so the ears can be moved by a servo motor when triggered by a pressure sensor

The mechanics work quite well. However, I am having trouble with the Arduino board and have not had a chance to fix it.

I have also spent quite some time to make a press fit box, the box shown above is glued together. After few trials. A press fit model was made and is in working stage.

My next step is to figure out the Arduino glitch (getting the driver) and prototype the elephant so it can work based on the programming.

Here is the sketch I made to illustrate the interactions:

]]> http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?feed=rss2&p=3202 0 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2845 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2845#comments Tue, 01 May 2012 18:25:52 +0000 fqiu http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2845 Koi-nobori means “koi rising” in Japanese. They are koi-shaped wind socks traditionally flown in Japan to celebrate Tango no Sekku, also known as Children’s Day. From April to early May, landscapes across Japan are decorated with koinobori.

Since it is spring time, I thought it would be a cool project to make my own koinobori, incorporating the koi in an embroidery design.

I created a design using a voronoi program in processing and illustrator. Here it is:

Here’s the embroidery machine creating the stitches:

Here’s the finished product:

I then sewed the fabric in a tube shape and also sewed on a top and bottom to create a more finished look.

I wanted the steamer to light up as the koinobori gets  blown back and forth. It would be a great representation of the koinobori during the night time.

Here’s the circuitry:

Here’s the finished product:

Koinobori in action:

https://vimeo.com/41708267

At first, I had a lot of trouble with the knitting machine. The most frustrating part for me was that I could not get the yarn to cast on properly. I have tried adjusting the tightness and tension of the knitting machine, but i could never get it quite right.

I tried to knit using the round tube knitting machine, it was a very interesting machine to try, though because I did not have the right tension, many stitches fell off during the knitting process.

After giving the knitting machine another try, I successfully made two consecutive elf hats. I thought it looked like an ear structure. It could be a pretty Halloween accessory. I tried to knit few more structure, but again, I could not cast on.

After I came home, I realized it is actually a perfect fit for my stuffed animal to keep it warm in the harsh Boston winter time.

Goal: Make a robot

Ambitious goal: Make a kit where people can assemble and program their own robot

Brainstorm Sketch:

Potential interactions:

• Sounds, movement, lights, color changes
• Human-toy interaction, toy-toy interaction

Existing product:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpcxEPubhjw

Existing project:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_7sKLHB06Y&feature=player_embedded#!

Timeline:

Week 1: brainstorm design, interaction

Week 2: brainstorm design, interaction

Week 3: test and prototype interactions

Week 4: finalize the “look”

Week 5: finalize interactions

Presentation:

Interactive Furry Robots

The computational design patterns reminded me of shadow puppets that are popular in Asia. Traditional shadow puppets are made out of cow hide. I wanted to recreate this using plastic and computational design.

I used a adjusted a Voronoi code. You can download it here

I wanted to recreate an abstract version of this painting using silicon and optic fibers. I first built a molt using Legos, I left holes where fiber optics should go. I then cut up several fiber optics pieces and scored cuts and holes.

After inserting the fiber optics into the Lego, I poured yellow and blue silicon over the fiber optics. Here’s the final product:

I then tested out how the fiber optics looked using a LED.

Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lg-n265DU20

Rooms for improvements:

I really liked how the project looked, if I had more time, I would’ve made another one where the painting part could be less abstract and resemble the real painting more. I could also be more strategic in terms of where I put the fiber optics. I think the effects would’ve been better if I concentrated the fiber optics more and scorched more.

1. Cut out the bunny shaped template pictured below. You can download the pdf version at the bottom of this post.

2. Use conductive tape, flexinol, mosfet to outline the circuitry depicted below. Use threat to secure the flexible around the ears area. Also put snaps on the paper to make space for the lilypad.

Note: make sure the flexinol is sown snugly on the ears

Note: make sure all the connection point on of the copper tape are secure, use a multimeter tocheck conductivity.

Note: this is how the front of the bunny looks. make sure all connection points are secure.

3. Program the arduino board and snap on the bunny, assemble the bunny in shape

Bunny Ear in action

https://vimeo.com/40136179

Calculation

I=V/R

I=0.41A

V = 3.7V

R predicted =appx 9 Ohms

R of circuit = 3.7 Ohms

I need 5 Ohms more -> add 5 more 1 Ohm resistors.

1. For this project, I wanted to build an interactive dinosaur. The dinosaur will light up when you hold his hand.

2. I first laser-cut 6 pieces of wood to make the dino’s body

3. Then I glued all the parts together

4. Then I am made the “skin” of the dino out of felt

5. I sewed the LEDs onto the felt in two intersecting parallel circuits, I used tape to make sure the circuits did not short each other.

6. “Look at my beautiful skin” – Dino

7.  Now make the arm using tape, velostat, and conductive thread. Then cover the arm with felt.

8. Then adhere the skin and the arm to the body

9. The finished dino

Dino enjoying a cup of coffee…

10. Watch Dino in action

http://vimeo.com/37609767

I first sketched some facial expressions that could be represented using threads.

Then I used a paper box to represent the face.

I then sew the facial feature onto the fabric and the box

Here are the results:

cold hot

Thermobot in action

Details

Voltage: 3.7 V

Resistance: 15.9 Ohms

Current (calculated) : 232 mAmps

Current (measured): ~100 mAmps