I started thinking of string sculptures and ruled surfaces while working on my project for Materializing Design with Larry Sass… My partner (Linlin) and I were responsible for the interiors… and the idea of using strings/ a ruled surface for the interior appealed to me. As I did more research, I found the area an intriguing one to explore… See photos of the built project below.

Digitally fabricated curved pavilion with Ruled-Surface interior

Photo of built project. A ruled surface can be described as the set of points swept by a moving straight line…

Survey of previous work in the area

Gabriel Dawe

Ball-Nogues Studio

Jane Echelman

More work in the area: Fred Sandback, Michael Eisenberg

Project Development

Digital Model and Render of Fabrication and String Sculptures

String Sculpture 01

Structure designed to create String Sculptures.

After assembly of structure, yarn was woven through the openings to create the above design…

Liquid Plastic… mixing of parts for application…

Sculpture after applying liquid plastic…

String Sculpture 02

Larger structure of Masonite that was designed in Rhino, then laser cut.

Other pieces designed and cut to attach to main mold above. These pieces are used to construct sculptures, then can be removed from the main mold…. enabling the mold to be reused…

Larger string sculpture… A scaled up version of the smaller one above…

Structure is 32″ (2′-8″) tall…

Weaving of yarn

String Sculpture 02 was a learning lesson on what happens “in-between” as the scale increases…

After liquid plastic was applied to the sculpture, it was removed from the mold.

The colors of the yarn changed a bit after application… it became dull… With more exploration and experimentation the results of many varied algorithms, directions, and order of weaving can reap many results I am certain…

String Sculpture 03

After String Sculpture 02 was removed from the mold, it was time to attempt String Sculpture 03… This one would be a Hyperboloid Structure… The Circle structure was hot glued to the structure, with small pieces separating the two from each other for easy removal…

Weaving of the yarn between surfaces… The BLUE yarn would be rotated 90 degrees and MAGENTA yarn rotated 180 degrees.

I felt like I was reeling in fish! Pulled long distances of yarn for tapestry needles…

Close up shot of the yarn…

Part one complete… Now for Part two..

Weaving of the magenta yarn… woven at a 180 degree turn..

Bellissimo!!

Almost complete…. almost….

Finished weaving…

Really nice to the touch…

Photo of Sculpture after hardening with liquid plastic…

Challenges and Learning experiences

• The design of the pieces for easy demolding of the string sculpture – This becomes important when it comes to removing the sculptures after the application of the plaster… Separation of the sculpture from the mold so that neither is destroyed was a challenge.
• Scaling – moving from one scale to another changes the resulting form and spaces tremendously! By working at different scales a lot can be learned.

Future Work

• Create more string sculptures – I ran out of liquid plastic and would like to purchase more and harden more sculptures.. explore the possibility of their use beyond an installation. How can this be applied in architecture?
• Try Kinetic String Sculptures

This work by  Vernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

I plan to do a string sculpture or sculptures for my final project.. Below are images of where I am thus far… I have made a 6″ x 6″ structure in which to make string sculptures, and another large one that is approx. 24″ x 12″. I have lost some photos I only now noticed.. But this is more or less where I am thus far.

]]> http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?feed=rss2&p=3063 0 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2741 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2741#comments Tue, 01 May 2012 15:34:05 +0000 Vernelle Noel http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2741 This week our assignment was to do either of two things… Do an embroidery or design and 3d print a textile structure. I began by trying to embroider one of my sketches.. but time was not on my side so I opted for doing the 3D print textile..

This is what I wanted to embroider… but didn’t.. not this time at least… NEXT TIME.. I began trying to do a textile pattern in Rhino… but wanted to try something else too..

I wanted to try patterns with Erwin Hauer as my inspiration.. Erwin is an Austrian sculptor who explores infinite, continuous surfaces.

Screen designed by Hauer..

Single module showing geometric relationship of shapes….

Module…

Render..

Design and relationship 2

Pattern…

Relationship 3..

]]> http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?feed=rss2&p=2741 0 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2468 http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2468#comments Tue, 10 Apr 2012 16:26:28 +0000 Vernelle Noel http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/?p=2468 This week our assignment was to: create two knit pieces, one by following an existing pattern and one by developing your own pattern.

I was able to knit a swatch using the knitting machines but not the mid-gauge machine or fine-gauge machines. I just didn’t get the chance to.. Since I wasn’t able to I spent some time trying a couple studies/experiments for my final project exploration.

Exploration of creating a curved, wavy surface from a flat sheet. The use of pegs to raise surfaces

An algorithm for a pattern as a screen on a structure of some sort..

Juxtaposition of organic and formal

Vernelle Noel – Resources

• Website
• Blog
• Flickr
• Youtube

This work by Vernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

For my Final project I will like to explore the employment of computational techniques in the design of Carnival costumes.

Click for PDF document >>>

In my first experiment, I wanted to get a dispersion effect with shapes and Grasshopper would be the tool.

Image of Rhino display of Grasshopper program using a point as an attractor

Grasshopper program that produced the design shown above in Rhino

Lace Pattern produced using the layout of the circles.

I made those circles that were unattached (not touching other circles) those that I would cut out of the paper.

My second experiment with Grasshopper involved generating a pattern of circles by relating the radii of circles to an image. Where the pixel is dark, the circle will be small dark pixel, and where bright, the circle will be large.

Image of micro-organisms as the generator of the pattern

Rhino visualization of the image generated program

Grasshopper program that generated the design above

I applied the same rule and allowed circles that were not touching other circles to cut through the material.

After experimenting with Grasshopper, I went on to Processing. I edited programs we were given for some awesome Voronoi diagrams. I experimented with several changes in the program but am only able to put a few of them here.. I must say this though..

I would like to thank Lin Lin for going over with me again the procedure for editing the pdf file in Adobe Illustrator. Click here for notes on How to edit your file in Illustrator, AND on how to export to a .dwg file sans a million hatches.

Voronoi Pattern

Pattern after Laser cutting

My fourth lace cut is shown below….

Image of design

Design after cutting

Procedure for editing file in Abode Illustrator >>>

This was a great assignment.. I really hope to become a professional in Rhino, Grasshopper and Processor one day!

Vernelle Noel – Resources

• Website
• Blog
• Flickr
• Youtube

This work by Vernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

1. Open your pattern in illustrator
2. Ctrl+A (Select All)
3. — Right click
4. — Release clippling mask
5. Delete background (may have to do this twice)
6. Default Fill and Stroke
7. Select None for Fill
8. Object
9. — Ungroup (if grouped)
10. Unclick/ deselect everything
11. Select All
12. Window
13. — Pathfinder
14. — Divide
15. Select All
16. Make sure there is no Fill
17. Ungroup
18. Select lines outside of the bounding box
19. Delete
20. Select All
21. Choose weight (3 pt.)
22. Object
23. — Expand
24. — Uncheck Full
25. — Ok
26. Window
27. — Pathfinder
28. — Unite

To get outlines alone for the Cadd File go to:

1. Window
2. — Pathfinder
3. — Outline
4. Export file as .dwg or .dxf

When you open it is your Cadd program, there will be no hatches.

Dried leaves in latex

Leaves in latex

Testing of LED on copper tape

The second thing I did after trying the latex was test the potential of a simple circuit using an LED, copper tape, and power (3.7V max). In my photo above my LED lit brightly and my simple circuit was a success.

Designs generated using Balla Grammar

I love the work of Italian futurist painter, Giacomo Balla, and last semester I developed a shape grammar of his work, i.e. a computational approach to the generation of Balla-esque paintings. I decided I would use one of my designs using his grammar as the design for my silicone cast LED circuit. I modeled the design to create 3-dimensional character and for cutting of the mold. below are images of the “stained window” design.

Model & render of the Balla grammar design

Design laser cut from Masonite

I soldered my LEDs unto copper tape (separately) for easier placement and working into the circuit.

At the back of my mold I drew the negative lines (red) and the positive lines (black) of the circuit as a guide. This would influence the direction in which I laid my LED’s for efficient wiring of the circuit to the positive or negative sides of the LEDs. See wiring and soldering below.

After installing my circuit with LEDs and securing my mold, I made my silicone mixture (equal parts of Part A and Part B) and poured it – it is very viscous – into my mold. The stipulated time for curing is 1.5 hours.

After de-molding I connected my silicone cast circuit to a power supply and voila! my LEDs lit up. In de-molding however, I damaged one of the electrical connections of my LEDs.

Click here for YouTube Video >>>

Lessons Learned:

• Think carefully about demolding – I hot glued for circuit onto the Masonite frame so that it would be secure. I originally wanted the circuit suspended in the silicone. This plan changed after fixing it to the Masonite frame.
• Demolding – thought I didn’t get to try it here with silicone, I would have tried PAM (spray cooking oil) on my Masonite for easy demolding.. I will next time I use silicone.
• Mixing of clear silicone – I wish there was some visual clue to know if your Part A and Part B of silicone was properly mixed (please invent someone). I mixed my silicone, and was careful to stir and not whip so as not to introduce too many bubbles in the mixture. There were some areas that did not cure properly, and it would be because of improper mixing of the two parts.

Vernelle Noel – Resources

• Website
• Blog
• Flickr
• Youtube

This work by Vernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

This week I decided to actuate three strips of felt with the nitinol. My goal was to understand the material, and the electronics… the circuitry behind the whole thing. Since i would be activating three strips separately, I would need three mosfets.

A MOSFET is a voltage controllable switch, “a metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor (MOSFET, MOS-FET, or MOS FET) used for amplifying or switching electronic signals.”

I stitched and soldered the components that I would need to create my circuit for our assignment. Above you can see my mosfets with their respective 1M Ohm resistors. The nitinol must be prepared to be soldered to the conductive fabric. The ends of the nitinol was curled into a hook and inserted into a crimp bead. Then using a pliers the nitinol was squeezed tightly in the crimp bead. I stitched the nitinol down to the felt with a zig-zag stitch then soldered the ends to the conductive fabric.

Photo showing all three nitinol strips, mosfets, and location of Arduino on the left

After stitching and soldering my main components, I troubleshooted my circuit. Above is a sketch of the connections I made to test. IT WORKED!!!

After checking the resistance of each nitinol strip – based on Leah’s advice – I realized that I was short of resistance and could run the risk of damaging my wire, and draining my battery. Using my multimeter I calculated the following:

Calculations

V = IR

Voltage = 3.7V (battery)

I = 400 mA (max. current for the .006″ wire)

R = 3.7V/ 0.4 A

R = 9.25 Ohms

I had to add resistance to each circuit.

Above is a photo of what I did to add resistance. I decided to use 1 Ohm resistors that are soldered onto PCB Boards as this was a neater option. I added 3 or 5 together as needed and soldered to my circuit as shown below.

3 Ohms were needed here, but I added a 0 Ohm resistor to increase the length of the bridge.

Resistance of 5 Ohms added

Arduino Code

int internalLED = 13;
int Nitinol1 = 5;
int Nitinol2 = 6;
int Nitinol3 = 9;

void setup() {                
 // initialize the digital pin as an output.
 // Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards:
 pinMode(internalLED, OUTPUT);
 pinMode(Nitinol1, OUTPUT);
 pinMode(Nitinol2, OUTPUT);
 pinMode(Nitinol3, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
 digitalWrite(13, HIGH);   // set the LED on
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(13, LOW);    // set the LED off
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol1, HIGH);   // set the first leg on
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol1, LOW);    // set the first leg off
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol2, HIGH);   // set the first leg on
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol2, LOW);    // set the first leg off
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol3, HIGH);   // set the first leg on
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
 digitalWrite(Nitinol3, LOW);    // set the first leg off
 delay(1000);              // wait for a second
}

Video of Shape Changing Textile >>>

Video #2 >>>

Materials:

1. Felt
2. Velostat – a carbon impregnated black polyethylene film that is electrically conductive
3. Conductive thread
4. Snaps
5. Conductive fabric
6. Multimeter
7. Alligator clips

How to make the sensor
Cut a piece of felt so that they fit nicely in the palm of your hand. Cut them with little “ears” so that snaps can be attached to them. Iron piece of conductive fabric on the “ear” end of the felt. Attach snap onto the “ear” so that it goes through the conductive fabric. Sew conductive thread from one side of the felt to the other. Ensure that the conductive thread holds securely to the conductive fabric on the “ear.” Repeat this process on the other piece of felt.

Take a piece of velostat and place between the two felt constructions we just made. The snaps secure the two pieces of felt together. We now have a sandwich with the bread as the felt, and the filling, the velostat.

Felt with conductive thread, conductive fabric and snaps

Felt with conductive thread, conductive fabric and snaps

Felt with velostat between

Velostat placed on one of the felt pieces

Place other felt swatch on the other (on the velostat)

Completed resistive sensor with velostat between

Testing resistance of the sensor
Place tips of the multimeter on the “ears” of the felt construction. Be sure to turn your multimeter dial to Ohm for reading resistance. With the tips on the “ears,” press the sensor and note the change/ reduction of the resistance on your multimeter.

YouTube video – testing resistance change of sensor >>>

YouTube video – serial monitor readings of resistance sensor >>>

After analyzing my readings on the serial monitor  to get a range of values, I found that a comfortable amount of palm pressure gave me a reading of approx 28-29. So in my code, I used the variable of the sensor value to be below 30, under which my LEDs will begin to flash

if (sensorValue < 30)

Constructing the KNight Rider glove
I retrofitted an existing glove to make my Knight Riders’ glove. I examined the glove and decided where I wanted to place my LEDs so that when I make a fist (to squeeze my sensor), the LEDs light up. I will be placing my sensor in the palm of my hand.

Testing electronics and programming of circuit and Lilipad Arduino

KNight Rider Glove circuit diagram

YouTube Video – testing of On/ Off code written >>>

YouTube video – testing Flash code written >>>

Stitching of sensor into palm of glove

KNight Riders' Glove - when sensor is not pressed

KNight Riders' Glove - when sensor is pressed

Resources

YouTube Video of KNight Riders’ Glove >>>

YouTube Vid >>>

Click here for Arduino Code (Flash) for KNight Riders’ Glove >>>

Other

• Website
• Blog
• Flickr
• Youtube

This work byVernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.