New Textiles 2012 » Uncategorized

Clipping Mask Removal

jacobsj — Fri, 25 May 2012 03:43:37 +0000

Once you execute your code, it will save a pdf of your design to the corresponding sketch folder in your Processing directory. At this point, you will need to modify your design a bit in adobe illustrator to prep it for the laser cutter.

These steps are as follows:

1. Open the pdf in illustrator

2. Right click on your diagram and select “Release Clipping Mask” and delete the box around the border that results.

3. Select all of the remaining objects in the file and go to Object->Expand. Select “stroke” and hit ok.

4. Lastly, Select the whole diagram, go back to your pathfinder window and select “Unite”. This will merge all of your paths into one. (You only need to do these last two steps for the pattern.pdf file. Everything else just needs to have the clipping mask removed.) Save your file as a pdf and you’re ready to cut!

A Dress that Breathes

anasto — Mon, 21 May 2012 23:00:55 +0000

As a continuation of my project from the moving textile assignment, I made a dress with fabric origami panels that are actuated by nitinol shape memory wire. The repetitive contracting and expanding motion of the panels is reminiscent of breathing. The panels are made in a pair to mimic anatomical lungs.

I created a pattern for a dress with a straight skirt and a princess-seamed bodice and sewed the dress out of polyester satin. To make the origami panels, I laser cut the fold pattern on a piece of cotton/poly blend fabric. Then, I folded the fabric along the fold lines and stitched the folds in place. To stiffen the fabric, I made my own starch (by dissolving 2 tbsp. of cornstarch in 1/4 c. of water, then whisking in 2 c. of boiling water) and dipped the fabric in it, then set the starch by ironing the fabric when just barely damp.

To make the nitinol springs, I wrapped wire around a screw and held it in place with nuts. I put them in a furnace at 500 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes to set the shape.

The Voronoi lace pattern of the peplum is inspired by the Voronoi patterns present in alveoli, which are structures in lungs that are responsible for gas exchange.

: sciencephoto.com

I laser cut the peplum pattern that I designed using Processing and a random Voronoi generator code.

A Lilypad Arduino is used to control the nitinol actuated panels. The panels are programmed so that the current switches on and off, causing the wire to expand and contract to create a repetitive motion that is reminiscent of breathing.

Here are videos of the dress in action:

The motion is quite subtle, but I think that is ideal for mimicking respiration since breathing is subtle as well. I would have liked to have had the panels be attached so that they contour the body of the dress. However, when I tried this, the panels were too constrained to produce the desired motion. I was pleased with how the fabrication of the fabric origami worked out. I think it would be interesting to use this technique to make other origami structures out of fabric.

Final presentation slides

Lissajous & Prolate Code

rbatzer — Mon, 21 May 2012 17:26:43 +0000

/*This example draws voronoi diagram generated by a random set of points.*/

void setup() {

size(1200,600,P3D); //size of your intended pattern

noLoop(); // don’t need to use the draw loop

/*unique name for your file. if left unchanged,

will simply save file with current milisecond*/

String fileName= “voronoi”+millis()+”.pdf”;

beginRaw(PDF, fileName); //enables you to save your design to a pdf

setupVoronoi(); // create your voronoi generator

int a = 3;

int b=4;

int numPoints=200; //must be multiple of n

float x=0;

float y=0;

float delta =0;

float t=0;

delta=(b-1)/b*3.14159265/2;

for (int k=1;k

t= k*2*3.14159265/numPoints;

x=200*sin(t*a+delta)+600;

y=150*sin(b*t)+300;

voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(x,y));

}

int c = 3;

int d=4;

int numPoints2=200; //must be multiple of n

float theta =0;

for (int k=1;k

y=5*(c*theta-d*sin(theta));

x=5*(c-d*cos(theta))+20;

theta= theta+23*3.14159/numPoints2;

voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(x,y));

voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(1200-x,y));

}

drawVoronoi(); //renders your voronoi

endRaw(); //ends the recording

}

/*This example draws voronoi diagram generated by a random set of points.*/
void setup() { size(1200,600,P3D); //size of your intended pattern noLoop(); // don’t need to use the draw loop /*unique name for your file. if left unchanged, will simply save file with current milisecond*/ String fileName= “voronoi”+millis()+”.pdf”; beginRaw(PDF, fileName); //enables you to save your design to a pdf setupVoronoi(); // create your voronoi generator int a = 3; int b=4; int numPoints=200; //must be multiple of n float x=0; float y=0; float delta =0; float t=0;
delta=(b-1)/b*3.14159265/2; for (int k=1;k }

Elephant

fqiu — Mon, 21 May 2012 13:18:49 +0000

elephant

http://newtextiles.media.mit.edu/2012/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/elephant.pdf

A Subtly Waving Dress.

bijal — Mon, 21 May 2012 03:19:46 +0000

For my final project, I decided to combine two concepts learned in class. The first was utilizing the laser cutting machine to cut a textile in a vornoi design. The second was integrating shape memory alloys (nitinol) into my garment to make it have a “live” component to it.

To that end, I decided to make a dress that incorporate both of these elements. In particular, I wanted to create scallops in the dress, that moved up and down, creating a waving effect. Because my scallops were too small, in the end, unless you are close, the movement is not super visible. Never the less, I was successful in achieving this result and am excited to share the video and process below.

Final Dress (Front & Back)

My inspiration from my dress came from several places including art installations as well as high-fashion. I have provided slides below of some of my points of inspiration.

Getting Started:

I decided to first laser cut the pieces I needed for the dress. I started with the vornoi design you see at the top of the dress. The code for that is a simple vornoi spiral code, which you can find below. In addition, I created scallops in adobe illustrator and used the laser cutter to cut those into the black material of the dress. I first cut out the pattern pieces and then laser in the designs.

I then started to sew in the nitinol and wired the scallops of the skirt part of my dress. I decided to use .010in diameter nitinol which required 1050mA of current. With a 3.7V battery this meant that I need about 3.52Ohms of resistance. I decided to only do 2 scallops in series to ensure that I had the appropriate resistance. I programed the Arduino so that 4 different sets of scallops would move. I decided to have the current run 4 10 seconds in each set, before moving on to the next set. The simple Arduino Code is also provided below.

Before stitching the dress together completely, I tested the nitinol to make sure it was working. A link to the video is below: https://vimeo.com/42513826

Once I was sure that the nitinol and circuit worked properly, I connected the top and bottom of the dress. The end result is below:

Video of Dress in Action: https://vimeo.com/42514541

Final Presentation Slides

Processing Code:

void setup() {

size(800,800,P3D); //size of your intended pattern

noLoop(); // don’t need to use the draw loop

/*unique name for your file. if left unchanged,

will simply save file with current milisecond*/

String fileName= “voronoi”+millis()+”.pdf”;

beginRaw(PDF, fileName); //enables you to save your design to a pdf

setupVoronoi(); // create your voronoi generator

// =========GENERATE SPIRAL=============== //

int centerLimit = 350; // variable to control the maximum diameter of the spiral

float theta = .2; //like the diameter of your circle, but increases with every point in your spiral, producing the spiral effect.

//this will draw one spiral

for(int k=0;k

theta +=.7;

drawPoint(width/2,height/2,theta,theta);

}

drawVoronoi(); //renders your voronoi

endRaw(); //ends the recording

}

void drawPoint(float orgX, float orgY, float theta, float diameter) { //function that generates and adds circular points

float xPos = sin(theta)*diameter+orgX;

float yPos = cos(theta)*diameter+orgY;

voronoi.addPoint(new Vec2D(xPos, yPos));

}

Arduino Code:

int Nitinol1 = 17;

int Nitinol2 = 16;

int Nitinol3 = 6;

int Nitinol4 = 5;

void setup() {

// initialize the digital pin as an output.

// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards:

pinMode(Nitinol1, OUTPUT);

pinMode(Nitinol2, OUTPUT);

pinMode(Nitinol3, OUTPUT);

pinMode(Nitinol4, OUTPUT);

}

void loop() {

digitalWrite(Nitinol1, HIGH); // set the first leg on

delay(10000); // wait for 10 second

digitalWrite(Nitinol1, LOW); // set the first leg off

digitalWrite(Nitinol2, HIGH); // set the second leg on

delay(10000); // wait for 10 second

digitalWrite(Nitinol2, LOW); // set the second leg off

digitalWrite(Nitinol3, HIGH); // set the third leg on

delay(10000); // wait for 10 second

digitalWrite(Nitinol3, LOW); // set the third leg off

digitalWrite(Nitinol4, HIGH); // set the forth leg on

delay(10000); // wait for 10 second

digitalWrite(Nitinol4, LOW); // set the forth leg off

}

int Nitinol1 = 17;int Nitinol2 = 16;int Nitinol3 = 6;int Nitinol4 = 5;
void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output. // Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards:
pinMode(Nitinol1, OUTPUT); pinMode(Nitinol2, OUTPUT); pinMode(Nitinol3, OUTPUT); pinMode(Nitinol4, OUTPUT);}
void loop() {digitalWrite(Nitinol1, HIGH); // set the first leg ondelay(10000); // wait for 10 seconddigitalWrite(Nitinol1, LOW); // set the first leg off digitalWrite(Nitinol2, HIGH); // set the second leg ondelay(10000); // wait for 10 seconddigitalWrite(Nitinol2, LOW); // set the second leg off digitalWrite(Nitinol3, HIGH); // set the third leg ondelay(10000); // wait for 10 seconddigitalWrite(Nitinol3, LOW); // set the third leg off
digitalWrite(Nitinol4, HIGH); // set the forth leg ondelay(10000); // wait for 10 seconddigitalWrite(Nitinol4, LOW); // set the forth leg off }

Final Project Update – Furry Robots

fqiu — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:55:02 +0000

I am a little behind on my project compared to my original timeline. Here is what I have accomplished so far:

I have created a mock-up of what the toy robot will look like:

I then structured how the inside of the elephant will look so the ears can be moved by a servo motor when triggered by a pressure sensor

The mechanics work quite well. However, I am having trouble with the Arduino board and have not had a chance to fix it.

I have also spent quite some time to make a press fit box, the box shown above is glued together. After few trials. A press fit model was made and is in working stage.

My next step is to figure out the Arduino glitch (getting the driver) and prototype the elephant so it can work based on the programming.

Here is the sketch I made to illustrate the interactions:

Light Fixture – Project Update

gracie15 — Tue, 08 May 2012 21:45:06 +0000

For my project so far I went through a few different phases of deciding what the shape of my hanging light fixture/chandelier would look like. I experimented with hanging small flowers made from coffee filters to a small piece of cardboard using some conductive thread and LEDs as a test. I wanted to see what the feasibility of designing this with flowers dangling in a free form structure would be. I considered using wire to make this more stable but it ends up that this was not going to turn out how I envisioned and would not look very polished. I also am thinking the LEDs would be difficult to attach to such a loose structure.

I also have purchased some metallic silver cardstock to use for the flower structures.

Here are samples of what I tested out using the Arduino, conductive thread and a test flower:

Instead of this I have opted to create a spherical base structure now with the help of Jennifer’s codeable objects program and use copper tape to attach the LEDs. I will be attaching a flower structure similar to this but will not be using a hanging lightbulb:

This is the base structure I created using the Codeable Objects:

I have started to test out laser cutting the parts for the spherical structure. I wanted to start small before I laser cut the real pieces. I also worked with Jennifer to find out what the maximum size I could achieve with the codeable objects parts would be and she supplied me with some updated code that allows for larger components.

Here is an image of what I tested out using the laser cutter:

I also learned how to use the blade saw in the lab so that I can work with a larger piece of wood.

My plan for then next few weeks:

Cut the base structure using the laser cutter
Laser cut the flowers
Attach all the flowers and LEDs to the base.
Program the LEDs using Arduino

Extension Rock_Update

nwp — Tue, 08 May 2012 15:00:25 +0000

The first iteration of the Extension Rock was completed with 2 100′ lengths of Nylon Braided roap. The weaving pattern was a standard underover warp and weft procuding what some call the Bumble Bee Cover. At first, the weave was extremely taught and didn’t allow for the desired ergonomic depression depression. After we had some larger people sit into it, the rope stretched into position some for a very comfortable sitting surface.

Since the chair is on two bi-directional rails it is dependent on your legs to balance. My roommate said the felt like she was floating in a pool, as though she was boyant. Others tried multiple ways of sitting in it pushing the limits as to how it can be used. Shown below are we show perpendular and diagonal.

Next I plan on using cotton rope to weave different patterns like this which is commonly used for wicker
<
For the final iteration I plan to weave a 100′ extension cord warp for a plug-in chair and an ethernet cable weft for internet access.

Project Update

anasto — Tue, 08 May 2012 03:52:30 +0000

My plan is to make a dress with fabric origami panels that will be actuated with nitinol to create the illusion of breathing. I will make two panels for the front of the bodice of the dress. To add to the theme of respiration, I will add laser cut voronoi lace to the skirt of the dress to emulate the voronoi patterns of alveoli, which are hollow structures in lungs that allow for optimal gas exchange with their large surface areas.

I purchased fabric and a battery that will be appropriate for my project. I trained nitinol that I ordered from McMaster by wrapping nitinol wire around screws and heating them in the furnace to create spring shapes. I will use these nitinol springs to move my origami fabric pieces.

I experimented with cotton fabric and a starching process to create stiff fabric origami. First, I laser cut the origami pattern with dashed lines onto the fabric.

Then, I folded the fabric along the dashed lines and sewed the folds in place. I made my own starching solution by dissolving cornstarch in cold water, then adding boiling water. I dipped fabric in the solution and let it dry until barely damp. Then, I used an iron to press folds in place and set the starching. I was satisfied with the result and will use this type of fabric and technique for my garment panels.

These are the remaining steps to complete my project:

Create the pattern for the dress and figure out appropriate dimensions for lace pieces and nitinol actuated panels.
Laser cut lace and origami pieces.
Stitch and starch origami pieces.
Cut and sew dress from the fabric I purchased.
Iron on lace pieces.
Add origami panels with circuitry.

I will complete the first three bullet points this week, and the last three bullet points next week.

Koinobori

fqiu — Tue, 01 May 2012 18:25:52 +0000

Koi-nobori means “koi rising” in Japanese. They are koi-shaped wind socks traditionally flown in Japan to celebrate Tango no Sekku, also known as Children’s Day. From April to early May, landscapes across Japan are decorated with koinobori.

Since it is spring time, I thought it would be a cool project to make my own koinobori, incorporating the koi in an embroidery design.

I created a design using a voronoi program in processing and illustrator. Here it is:

Here’s the embroidery machine creating the stitches:

Here’s the finished product:

I then sewed the fabric in a tube shape and also sewed on a top and bottom to create a more finished look.

I wanted the steamer to light up as the koinobori gets blown back and forth. It would be a great representation of the koinobori during the night time.

Here’s the circuitry:

Here’s the finished product:

Koinobori in action:

https://vimeo.com/41708267