At first, I had a lot of trouble with the knitting machine. The most frustrating part for me was that I could not get the yarn to cast on properly. I have tried adjusting the tightness and tension of the knitting machine, but i could never get it quite right.

I tried to knit using the round tube knitting machine, it was a very interesting machine to try, though because I did not have the right tension, many stitches fell off during the knitting process.

After giving the knitting machine another try, I successfully made two consecutive elf hats. I thought it looked like an ear structure. It could be a pretty Halloween accessory. I tried to knit few more structure, but again, I could not cast on.

After I came home, I realized it is actually a perfect fit for my stuffed animal to keep it warm in the harsh Boston winter time.

My series of knit experiments began with the little “elf hat” structure described by this week’s lab instructions.

I also experimented knitting 4 such “elf hat” structures in a row to create a “mountainous terrain”-like structure.

I became very interested in creating 3D knit structures after this initial trial. I envision a large tapestry or carpet made up of entirely 3D knit structures which can be used as decoration or some sort of haptic feedback system. I wanted to explore the method of creating 3D geometry of knitting by putting the Reynold levers in position 1 and putting stitches on hold to create holes. I began to explore some pattern ideas with small sections of needles. By doing the initial “elf hat” knit pattern, I began to gain some intuition about how to create sinks and holes by putting certain needles on hold and others on knit. So I began, very simply, by putting everything on hold except 6 that are close to the carriage. Because those needles are the only ones in stitch, I decided to stitch over these needles several times to create extrusions in the structure.  I decided to repeat this kind of pattern across my 40 stitch cast on knit. I decided to switch which needs are in knit and takes some out as I move across horizontally. I decided to progress by 3 needles per knit. If I progressed by a lot of needles, it will degrade the quality of the texture (because the more folds I can make across, the more complex the geometry will be). If I progress by only a few needles, I found it was hard to see the pattern as I knit. In the end, this is the knit structure I produced.

While knitting, I can only see the back side of the knit, and I did not know how the front of the knit will be affected. Once I finished casting off, I turned the knit over and was very surprised to find I actually produced a sort of nice braiding pattern. I think if I finished a row and continued backwards in the same stitch pattern, I would be able to produce a fish braid 3D knit pattern! I didn’t have a chance to try this successfully yet (every time I’ve tried, I end up dropping stitches), but if I have time with the knitting machine, I will pursue that idea.

Here is the method I used to produce the above pattern:

1 – cast on 40 stiches

2 – knit 20 rows with pink yarn

3 – knit 10 rows with grey

4 – knit 10 rows pink

5 – knit 6 rows grey

6 – knit 2 rows pink

7 – switch Russel levers to position 1

8 – put all needles on hold except the 6 closest to carriage

9 – knit over 4 times, then put the next 3 needles into knit and the first 3 needles closest to carriage into hold (carriage should be on right), and knit another 4 times

10 – then put the next 3 needles into knit and then put the 3 needles closest to carriage into hold (carriage should be on right), and knit over 4 times

11 – continue the procedure described in steps 9 and 10 until you get to the end of the row

12 – switch Russel levers to position 2 and knit on all needles

13 – knit about 10 rows with alternating colors if you wish and then either begin the pattern again or cast off.

I will warn that it is very easy to drop stitches if there is not enough weight on the knit. I suggest moving the weights across the knit as you progress horizontally across with the pattern. Additionally, while the Russel levers are in position 1, it is very important that the needles not in knit are pushed completely forward in the D position. Else, the carriage will pull up the needle into B position and knit where you don’t wish it to knit.

Assignment 2

This project uses knitting as a soft structure, that is given form then hardened. The knitting is done usung a circular knitting machine, tightened at both ends to make a small knit pouch. A small balloon is then inserted and inflated inside this pouch. This makes the knit fabric taught and it adopts the shape of the balloon. The knit fabric is then dipped in plaster and allowed to harden. Once the plaster is dry the balloon is popped and removed leaving a hard lattice structure.

Then, mysteriously, the textile vanished. This is the trail of documentation that returned to my inbox. I received 36 portraits on Easter Sunday. Here are a couple:

Other stories recall it flying above the trees and even below bridges.

“I thought it was a bird, but it was flying in ring!”, a girl stated.
“It looked like a wiggling snake, and I was scared”, a bus driver described.

This is the matrix of all 36 portraits where the new textile was documented.

Finally, it found its way back on my own head:

I wear it under my shirt like a necklace to keep it contained.

With the knitting machine, and the pattern that was provided for part 1 of the assignment, I knitted this swatch with a triangular protrusion.

By holding stitches, protrusions are created with the knitting machine by selectively knitting stitches more or less times than other stitches, creating a desired 3D shape. I have never tried this method by hand, so I decided to see what kind of structures could result by doing this same method with hand knitting.

I created this stitch pattern to make a swatch with 3 columns of bumps that are made by selectively working some stitches more than others, similar to the method of the knitting machine. However, with hand knitting, the gauge is larger and there are less stitches, so the visual effect is more subtle.

• Using size 7 needles and worsted weight yarn, cast on 27 stitches.
• Stockinette stitch first four rows (knit and purl every other row)
• All in stockinette: slip 1, knit 7, slip 1. continue working only these nine stitches. slip 2, purl 5, slip 2. slip 3, knit 3, slip 3. slip 4, purl 1, slip 4. and backwards: slip 3, knit 3, slip 3, slip 2, purl 5, slip 2. slip 1, knit 7, slip 1.
• Continue onto next nine stitches in the row in the same pattern. Then do the next nine after that.
• Purl, knit, purl next three rows.
• Continue repeating the pattern until desired length.

I also tried a technique different from the one employed by the knitting machine. Here, I created a stitch pattern where stitches are put on stitch holders and then knitted after the main body of the swatch is completed. This creates flaps that stick out perpendicular to the surface of the swatch.

• Using size 7 needles and worsted weight yarn. Cast on 24 stitches, stockinette stitch 6 rows.
• On a purl row, make increases on the first 6 stitches by purling in the front and the back of each stitch. Use markers to keep track of the increased stitches. Purl the remaining stitches in the row.
• For the increased stitches: knit 1, slip 1 onto a safety pin or scrap piece of yarn, repeat until you have knitted 6 stitches and placed 6 stitches on hold. Knit the remaining 18 stitches.
• Stockinette stitch 6 more rows.
• On a purl row, purl the first 6 stitches, then increase the next 6 by purling in the front and the back of each stitch, purl the remaining 12 stitches.
• In the next row, knit the first 12 stitches. For the increased stitches: knit 1, slip 1 onto a stitch holder until there are 6 knit and 6 on the stitch holder. Knit the remaining 6 stitches.
• Stockinette stitch 6 more rows.
• On a purl row, purl the first 12 stitches, then increase the next 6 by purling in the front and the back of each stitch, purl the remaining 6 stitches.
• In the next row, knit the first 6 stitches. For the increased stitches: knit 1, slip 1 onto a stitch holder until there are 6 knit and 6 on the stitch holder. Knit the remaining 12 stitches.
• Stockinette stitch 6 more rows.
• On a purl row, purl the first 18 stitches, then increase the last 6 by purling in the front and the back of each stitch.
• For the increased stitches: knit 1, slip 1 onto a stitch holder until there are 6 knit and 6 on the stitch holder. Knit the remaining 18 stitches.
• Stockinette stitch 6 more rows. Bind off.
• Pick up stitches that are held on safety pins or scrap yarn. Knit 5 rows (garter stitch), then bind off. Do this for all the stitches on holders.

I was able to knit a swatch using the knitting machines but not the mid-gauge machine or fine-gauge machines. I just didn’t get the chance to.. Since I wasn’t able to I spent some time trying a couple studies/experiments for my final project exploration.

Exploration of creating a curved, wavy surface from a flat sheet. The use of pegs to raise surfaces

An algorithm for a pattern as a screen on a structure of some sort..

Juxtaposition of organic and formal

Vernelle Noel – Resources

• Website
• Blog
• Flickr
• Youtube

This work by Vernelle Noel is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.

PART 1:

Attempt 1:

Botched the cast-off

But the knit was pretty nice.

Attempt 2:

Experimenting with a different yarn, trying to find a good tension…

I found that less tension (around 7) worked better for this particular yarn.

I was almost successful, but dropped a stitch while casting off (didn’t notice until i had finished casting off).

//

PART 2:

In researching knitting patterns, I happened upon an image of this cute crocodile scarf:

…and I fell in love with the texture. The texture was achieved using something called a tuck pattern.

According to this website, a tuck pattern is defined as:

Tuck is a structural pattern that appears on the wrongside. You can make tuck knitting by putting those needles in idling position that are to be “tucked”; thereby, the threads settle over them, and when you activate the needles again, these threads are fixed by the next row. There must not be several tucked threads next to each other.

This is the pattern for the knitting machine:

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Set Russell levers on carriage to position I (hold)

Starting with 3rd needle from the left edge, pull every 6th needle to hold position.

Knit 4 rows

Set russell levers on carriage to position II (knit)

Knit 2 rows

Set Russell levers on carriage to position I (hold)

Starting with 6th needle from the left edge, pull every 6th needle to hold position.

Knit 4 rows

Set russell levers on carriage to position II (knit)

Knit 2 rows

//

My sample:

Front:

Back:

Here is the result of what I was able to make with the amount of time and patience I had:

Knitting with knitting machine! I was excited to start this assignment, especially after seeing a sample of a 3d knitted fabric. The first part of the assignment was to make a swatch following the pattern below:

Cast on 20 needles. Knit 10 rows. Carriage should be on right side. Make sure carriage is in the proper mode (Russel levers should be in position I). Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on left side). Bring needle closest to carriage into hold position. Knit one row (carriage should be on right side). Continue bringing one needle into hold position on the carriage side until you have 2 needles in knit position in the center of your pattern. Carriage should be on right side.

Begin taking needles out of hold position. Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the left side) into B (knit) position. Knit one row (carriage should be on right side). Push the needle closest to the knitting on the opposite side of the carriage (the right side) into B (knit) position. Knit one row (carriage should be on left side). Continue bringing one needle out of hold position opposite the carriage side until all needles are back in knit position. Knit 10 rows. Cast off.

After completing the first pattern, I continued on with the same pattern but added additional knit rows in between every hold position. It created a taller bump. Taking this test to the next step is the below attempt of creating a knitted landscape.

After coming back from a week long spring break research trip (for another class) to Iceland, I was inspired by the vast moon-like moss covered lava rock landscape of Iceland. For the second portion of the assignment, I wanted to create a knitted landscape (a small swatch of 6×6 for now) of small bumps in different shades of greens and yellows (imagine a mossy field in spring with small yellow flowers blooming – if there are flowers at all!)

I tested knitting with different yarn – brown cotton yarn, canary yellow linen yarn (too thin to knit with, and it broke off easily), moss green wool yarn (too thick for the knitting machine), and pine green thinner gauge wool yarn. The challenge was to use all of these different material/gauge yarn on a single machine but keeping the same knit gauge to create different densities of bumps.

A mess! After struggling for few hours with the machine, I was able to knit few bumps with only one type of yarn. Problems were: yarn breaking off, yarn getting caught in the machine, knits slipping off the needles, loosing stitches, to name a few. More tests to follow. Below shows a successful 3d knit piece. (I used a larger gauge machine)

And this lovely image shows felted (with hot water – washing machine) knit piece.

I can imagine having multiple of these peaks and valleys in a larger piece would make for a very interesting texture.

Here is my completed piece for part 1:

For part 2, I decided to knit an image pattern using the DesignAKnit software.  I used a pattern that was already in the DesignAKnit library of patterns and contained images of flowers that looked like this:

Here is what the entire pattern looks like:

I chose this pattern because I knew that I would be using the fairisle setting on the knitting machine which knits only on one side and carries the yarn over on the other side, so I wanted something that would gradually increase and decrease the switching of colors in the pattern to decrease my chances of dropping a stitch in the process.

I loaded up this pattern on the software and chose to have the swatch 30 needles wide and 100 in length.  After casting on the first color of yarn (white), I added the crimson colored yarn in front of it on the carriage.  I started up the DesignAKnit program and starting knitting, making sure I was on the “F” setting on the machine and in the “triangle” position for the levers on the side.  I watched as the software kept track of which colors it was using for each row and how it switched off. Amazing!  After I knit the first few rows, I added weights to the ends of the knitting and then made sure to move the weights up throughout the process to prevent the machine from dropping a stitch.  There were a few times that some stitches were dropped, so I tried my best to fix them before moving on to the next row but inevitably the finished piece still contained a few dropped stitches that I did not see until the end.  I could have possibly prevented this if I watched each row more carefully and adjusted the needles or perhaps adjusting the tension on the machine may have helped so that the stitches were not as tight, which makes it hard for the machine to catch on to them each time.  In any case, I ended the pattern by knitting a wide stripe of the crimson colored yarn and a thin stripe of the white  yarn which made my piece look like a pattern for a sock. I made the mistake of keeping the machine on the F setting during this part, so the opposite color yarn was carried over in the back. I fixed this by cutting the extra yarn at the end and tying a few knots.

Appropriately, my swatch happens to be the Harvard University school colors.

Here is the finished product:

This pattern is interesting because the gradual shift of colors in each row makes it very suitable for the knitting machine since it is not jumping around and switching colors too frequently.  The continuity in the colors makes it so that the pattern looks very sleek and organized.  I played with switching colors manually at the end of my pattern and noted that it took slightly more effort to get this done right than having to deal with one color when knitting without the software. Looking back though, I think a nice effect would have been achieved if I flipped the colors of my yarn halfway through the pattern which the software was controlling so that I could see the opposite effect on the pattern or maybe could have used completely new colors.